A Scottish Journey: The Royal Yacht Britannia
By Nujma Bond
I hadn’t expected to spend several hours on Britannia. But she drew me in with her unique history, interesting artefacts, and as I was to discover – her lovely tearoom, once part of a larger deck used for leisure activities. The visit had been on my agenda, but I wasn’t sure if I’d actually have time. I’m sure glad I made the effort to fit it in.
The Royal Yacht Britannia was used by the British Royal Family for 44 years. It sailed family members to events and appearances, and took them on vacation. It acted as a glittering location for guests and dignitaries to visit. Britannia was decommissioned in 1997, and not replaced - a decision made by the late Queen Elizabeth II. It is now moored just west of Edinburgh, alongside a small and quaint Scottish town by the water, called Leith – which itself is worth a closer look.
The first thing that struck me upon approaching the entry point, was the hall that would normally corral a long line of visitors. I was in luck. Because of the time of year, there was absolutely no-one lined up. In fact, I saw no-one but a few staff members as I paid for my ticket and headed on board. This was going to be a unique chance to visit in relative peace. Not only that, the gloomy sky had opened up casting rays of sunlight and creating pleasant aura. It felt a little surreal.
Once on deck at the front of the ship and looking out over the water, there was a wonderful view of the inlet that eventually melds with the North Sea, and its surrounding landscape. I was drinking it all in.
The tour was magnificently organized. At stations positioned throughout the ship, I picked up what is essentially a phone receiver and learned succinct yet fascinating bits of history and context related to what I was looking at – whether it was the bridge, or one of the Queen’s favourite spots on the ship – such as the bright and airy sunroom. I learned she had rejected some of the early designs for the vessel’s interior, finding it essentially too elaborate. Indeed, the ship’s interior was really very understated, considering how much more lavishly decorated it could have been.
I visited everything I could: the bridge, the main dining room, the Queen’s own quarters, the engine rooms, crew quarters, all the decks and more. I thought about those who had once ascended the main staircase, up which visitors were not allowed to wander, and imagined the happy sounds of this once vibrant floating home. Even now as a public attraction, it still retained a pleasant, bright, and positive atmosphere.
A huge main deck I learned, was later partitioned to allow for a new tearoom to accommodate visitors who wanted to enjoy a bite and a view like no other. Though throughout my journey, time was running short, there was no way to just walk by this opportunity. Tearoom environments are relaxing – and to find one on the Britannia, well it was practically essential to wander inside! With only a handful of other visitors on board, I had my pick of locations so I chose a neatly set table overlooking the water.
I ordered a delicious mushroom soup which came with a fresh warm roll. Maybe it was the surroundings, maybe it was that I was in Scotland, but it was one of the tastiest little meals I’ve had. Having a penchant for baking and trying desserts, I had a piece of fresh carrot cake to end the experience. Just sitting there and taking it all in, felt special in some inexplicable way.
As I left the magnificent yacht which somehow had a homey feeling to it, I headed down the exit walkway, and stopped briefly to take a look at some of the “toys” like cars and smaller boats that the Royal Family had once enjoyed.
To this day, a dedicated crew still maintains Britannia in its original splendour. I’d had the unique chance to absorb another piece of history.
Now, though the light was waning, my exploration of the region wasn’t quite over. Because as I drove away, I made a concerted effort to find the street that ran along the water and saw neat stone homes and pubs. Once again, I really had no choice – I stopped to walk along the well-maintained public pathway, enjoying the light of the coming dusk as it spread over the water, and into the seemingly infinite vista.
