Cape Breton - Tea Biscuits

Mary Ann is second from the left.

(Contributed by Wayne MacDonald - SSO Director at Large

In the Celtic kitchen, the best bonang or tea biscuit recipe is often debated. Differences turn on ingredients used, quantities, and cooking temperature. It’s subjective! Like wine, the taste buds are the final arbitrators. At the risk of raising yet another tartan-kinfolk brawl, I offer my grandmother’s tea biscuit recipe. Mary Ann MacNeil (1895-1991) was born and raised in Barra Glen, Cape Breton. Mary Ann married Washabuck-born Roderick Stephen MacDonald (1893-1972) at St Columba Church in Iona. Five years prior, she was employed by Alexander Graham Bell when Canada entered the First World War (1917). Wanting to contribute to the war effort, Bell hoped to make boat building a major industry in the area. Work-sheds were constructed along the Bras d’Or Lake shores of Beinn Bhreagh (beautiful mountain), Baddeck. Local women were hired to replace the many men who left to serve in the army. Approximately 14 lifeboats were built for the Canadian Navy. Unfortunately, the effort did not lead to larger contracts. My grandmother would recall stories about regular morning visits to the workshop by Bell and his wife (Mabel). She recounted how they always walked hand in hand, and how much they were so in love. Here is a picture of Mary Ann as a young woman (second from the left in white sleeves and overalls).

When Mary Ann baked, she cooked with feel, observing the texture, noting the sensation, and gaining an impression. Requesting that she put her recipes on paper was really asking too much. It was not her way. Without seeking her approval, which she would never have granted, here is her recipe. Some of the gaps in parenthesis filled in by me. And, as she always concluded - good luck!

White Biscuits

In a bowl put:

• 2 cups - sifted flour (essential you sift flour before)

• 3 teaspoon - baking powder

• 1 teaspoon – salt

• 1 teaspoon - white sugar

Mix well into flour mixture:

• ½ cup shortening (cut into mixture with pastry blender until it resembles coarse meal)

• Add a little butter

Soften with milk (add 3/4 cup all at once, stirring all ingredients until moistened)

Turn onto a floured surface and knead lightly 10 times

Roll out dough to ½ inch thickness

Cut with cutter (use a cup or glass – 2 inch)

Place at least 1 inch apart on baking sheet

Whisk egg with a fork (and brush tops of biscuits)

Bake in oven at 450 degrees (8-10 minutes or until beige on top with sides start to crack)

Good luck!